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A Unicorn White “That Few Will Ever See’” and “the Finest I Have Ever Put to My Lips”

The King and “Henri Jayer of Sancerre” - Old Vines and Chalky Kimmeridgian Soils Deliver A “Yin and Yang” Experience of Richness, Precision, Complexity, and Echoing Minerality! Discover The Pinnacle Grand Cru-like Expression of Sauvignon Blanc from Vatan and Cotat.

 

“The Sancerre of Francois Cotat…are some of the finest Sauvignon Blancs I have ever put to my lips…I shook my head in wonderment as to why so few Sancerre producers made wines such as these [from Francois Cotat].” Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate

 

“Unfortunately, this is a Sancerre that few will ever see. Made from a single hectare in Chavignol by Anne Vatan, Edmund's daughter, it is for many the epitome of what a Sancerre can be…”  Vinous

 

“Vatan Clos La Néore is worth seeking out but it's not that easy. You can't even buy a bottle from her at the domaine. Clos La Néore is one of the world's most sophisticated Sauvignon Blancs. It is always pure and attractively austere with enormous substance. Produced from a 1 hectare parcel of mass-selected vines that were planted by Edmond Vatan in 1970 on clay-limestone.” - Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate

 

Sure there is great Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand to California, but few can achieve the precision, power, layers, complexity and minerality like the sleepy hamlets of Loire’s Valley’s Sancerre. This is the home to the pinnacle expressions of the noble white varietal, and within Sancerre there are the Kimmeridgian soils and Grand Cru-like vineyards of Chavignol. There are similarities here that are found in the soils of Champagne and Chablis. The wines produced on Kimmeridgian are some of the most distinguishing, soil-inflected, and terroir-driven sauvignon blancs produced in the Loire Valley, with delineation and minerality often reminiscent of traditional and exceptional Chablis. 

 

And sure, there is Sancerre, but then there is Sancerre from the prized crus of Chavignol. And just as Dauvissat and Raveneau are the celebrated producers in Chablis, there are the revered, and perhaps even more difficult-to-find, wines of Edmund Vatan, Francois Cotat and his cousin Pascal Cotat. I would personally add a few others to this list that often get overlooked, Bouley, Vacheron and a few others. Additionally, across the region in Pouilly Fumé, Domaine Didier Dagueneau – as the controversial winemaker studied under Edmund.  If you appreciate the wines of Cotat, Didier Dagueneau, even Chablis from the likes of Dauvissat, you will appreciate the rare wines of Edmond Vatan. Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate was correct, “Clos La Néore is one of the world's most sophisticated Sauvignon Blancs." It is always pure and attractively austere with enormous substance. Produced from a 1 hectare parcel of mass-selected vines that were planted by Edmond Vatan in 1970 on clay-limestone.

 

However, as I noted before, there is more to explore here than the extremely limited, unicorn whites wines of Vatan, the traditional Sancerres of Francois Cotat demand equal attention and are some of my favorite white wines I have shared over the past two decades. These are simply some of the most singular Sauvignon Blanc, and for that matter, white wines, in the world. These are wines that can age for decades effortlessly, and that marry a plush richness with energy and staining minerality. Cotat as a rule harvests by hand and very late, as pushing ripeness to the extreme is one element that gives his wines their weighty texture and complexity. Robert Parker was correct when he stated, “They are some of the finest Sauvignon Blancs I have ever put to my lips.”   We would add they are some of the magical whites of the world that need to be explored – and are available at a fraction of the price that Vatan demands.

 

While not as limited as Vatan, the wines of Francois Cotat are exceedingly difficult to secure. To put this in perspective, our local allocation is a mere 12 bottles of the iconic Monts Damnes. The term “cult wine,” is often abused, but I do believe in this case it is super fitting and that the wines of Francois Cotat, are worth seeking out, as they are some of the most inspiring whites, an exciting alternative to Chardonnay, and will simply make you rethink an entire category of wine.  

 

FEATURED WINES: The Grand Cru Sancerre of Francois Cotat and Vatan

Note: wines are pre-arrival

 

ADDITIONAL NOTES AND REVIEWS:

 

“Like Edmond Vatan at this time, Paul and Francis Cotat eschewed the more commercial style of Sancerre that grew up in those years, preferring to make wines in the ancient method that had made the white wines of Chavignol so famous for hundreds of years prior to Paris adopting Sancerre as its white wine quaff of choice, which meant restraining yields dramatically from what was becoming the modern norm, picking late for proper ripeness, only growing grapes in the great, hillside vineyards of Chavignol and Amigny and fermenting and aging the wines in large old barrels to produce a true vins de gardes style that demanded proper cellaring prior to drinking the wines. The Cotat brothers built up a loyal clientele over the course of their careers, with top restaurants clamoring for their wines for their wine lists and private clients very happy to be given an allocation each year. In addition to the three white wines that Paul and Francis Cotat jointly produced during their era (Monts Damnés, Culs de Beaujeu and La Grande Côte), they also produced a Sancerre Rosé and a very small amount of Sancerre rouge as well, which was primarily retained for family consumption and a few lucky private clients.”  John Gilman, View from the Cellar (on Cotat)

2023 François Cotat Sancerre Monts Damnés Located in the western half of the Sancerre appellation, Chavignol’s singular soils are called, in French, “terres blanches.” The region is essentially a chalk plateau (the same Kimmeridgian limestone as is found in Chablis). A top vineyard, ‘Les Monts Damnés,’ is perched on a steep hillside, facing south, with thin topsoils. François Cotat tends just over two acres of vines in ‘Damnés.’

 

Christopher Deas, Italian Wine MerchantsIf there is a Grand-Cru-like vineyard of Sancerre, it would certainly be “Cul de Beaujeu,” “La Grande Côte,” and “Monts Damnés.”  These sites yield what are the pinnacle expressions of Sauvignon Blanc, and that is certainly the case in the hands of Boulay, Vatan, Pascal Cotat, and Francois Cotat. However, it is the “Monts Damnés,” or “Damn Mountains”, in reference to the challenges associated with harvesting from these steep and intense old vineyards, that is the most recognized. It is also the most chalky, coiled, and persistent of the three vineyard sites, and in the hands of Francois Cotat, this is one of those game-changing wines that makes you rethink what you thought you knew.  There is concentration and texture here, but under that richness there is grip and cut, with awesome energy and minerality that stains the palate for a marathon finish that few wines can match. You can expect nuances of tropical fruit, melon, grapefruit, lemongrass, orange blooms, herbs, a touch of honey, finishing with crushed stone and awesome salinity. It is simply a perfect pairing to Sushi and Vietnamese cuisine.” 

2023 François Cotat Sancerre La Grande Cote Located in the village of Amigny. Vineyard soils are called, in French, “terres blanches.” This chalk plateau (the same Kimmeridgian limestone as is found in Chablis) extends through Chavignol and is where most of the appellation’s top vineyards are found. ‘La Grande Côte’ is perched on a steep hillside, facing south, with thin topsoils. François Cotat tends just one acre of vines in ‘La Grande Côte.’

 

Christopher Deas, Italian Wine Merchants: “What I like about the La Grande Côte is that there is more structure, finesse, and cut here, certainly next to the rounder Cul de Beaujeu. The special wine is produced from the old vines up to 60 years of age from the prized Kimmeridgian limestone soils. Here too is the signature “yin and yang” of concentration and underlying persistence with minerality. I love the contrast these wines provide, and the La Grande Cote has a little more finesse here. "

2016 VATAN Sancerre Clos de la Neore

Rebecca Gibb, Vinous: “The 2016 Sancerre Clos La Néore is almost Riesling-like in its firm yet fine personality, its unswerving purity and its clear translation of place. Don't expect a seductive Sancerre, this is dry and steely with an appealing bitterness making for a very grown up white wine. It's starting to show early signs of development in its light almond/lanolin character alongside lemon tea. It offers exceptional concentration while being light bodied and provides a steely core of acidity, keeping the wine together and powering on. If you have any in your cellar, I can make myself available for dinner. “It's very difficult to get an appointment with Anne Vatan, but dogged persistence pays off. And boy is it worth it. This prized Sancerre domaine is little more than a garage winery before garage wineries were famous. Having taken over the family domaine following the retirement of her father in 2007, she has leased out some of its vines to wine producer Vincent Gaudry while retaining the jewel in the Monts Damnés crown: Clos La Néore, which Gaudry also tends for her as she is not always in Chavignol. Clos La Néore is worth seeking out but it's not that easy. You can't even buy a bottle from her at the domaine. Clos La Néore is one of the world's most sophisticated Sauvignon Blancs. It is always pure and attractively austere with enormous substance. Produced from a 1 hectare parcel of mass-selected vines that were planted by Edmond Vatan in 1970 on clay-limestone.

This is an email ONLY offer!  Should you have any questions on these exciting wines, or would like to take advantage of this offer (that is only available until 11:59pm, Friday, January 3, 2024) we are asking that orders be emailed back to chris.deas@italianwinemerchants.com, or connect with your Portfolio Manager AND mention receipt of this offer if calling the store. All orders are subject to confirmation. IWM is not responsible for typographical errors.

 

All my best,

Chris

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